Djemaa el Fna
(Arabic: jâmi' al-fanâ') is a square and market place
in Marrakesh's medina quarter (old city). The origin of its name
remains unknown : it means Assembly of the dead in Arabic, but as
the word djemaa also means mosque in Arabic, it could also mean
place of the vanished mosque, in reference to a destroyed Almoravid
mosque.
The place remains the main square of Marrakesh,
used equally by locals and tourists. During the day it is predominantly
occupied by orange juice stalls, youths with chained Barbary apes,
water sellers in colourful costumes with traditional leather water-bags
and brass cups, and snake charmers who will pose for photographs
for tourists. As the day progresses the entertainments on offer
change: the snake charmers depart, and in the afternoon and evening
the square becomes more crowded, with Chleuh dancing-boys (it would
be against custom for girls to provide such an entertainment), story-tellers
(telling their tales in Berber or Arabic, to an audience of appreciative
locals), magicians, and peddlers of traditional medicines. As dark
descends the square fills with dozens of food-stalls, and the crowds
are at their height.
The square is edged along one side by the Marrakesh
souk, the traditional North African markets which service both the
common daily needs of the people of the city, and the tourist trade.
On other sides are cafe terraces to escape from the noise and confusion
down in the square, and on yet other sides are hotels and gardens.
Narrow streets lead into the alleys of the medina quarter, the old
city. The photograph illustrating this article shows the entrance
to the souk at the left, cafes in the centre, and the entrance to
the medina via the Street of the Olive (derb al zitoun) on the right.
Once a bus station, the place was closed to traffic in the early
2000s. The authorities are well aware of its importance to the tourist
trade, and a strong but discreet police presence ensures the safety
of visitors.
The award-winning documentary "Morocco: The Past and Present
of Djemma el Fna" features the storytellers, musicians, acrobats
and snake charmers of this celebrated crossroads of Arab and Berber
cultures, with historical commentary provided by the noted Moroccan
scholar Hamid Triki.
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